Ukrainians, like everybody else, are concerned with being fashionable. They are big fans of designer labels, but that’s just the thing—the labels. My male students wear pointy, fake-leather, elf shoes that say “Dolce and Gabbana” and “Prada”. The young women carry purses and wear polyester sweaters that say “Fendi” and “Gucci” in sequin letters. In some ways this represents a certain self-empowerment. They are taking the clothing that they like and can afford and making it fashionable by putting fashionable words on it. This Ukrainian Couture is a big post-Soviet middle finger to the fashion industry. However, the other result is that Ukrainians have their own ideas about what is fashionable. My twill chinos get looks of disapproval next to the polyester pinstripes that are favored by men my age. My students think I am strange for wearing loafers, but see-thru sheer blouses that show off animal print bras are perfectly acceptable.

A few weeks ago, I was walking around a huge clothing market in Kharkiv looking for things to add to a Halloween costume. I wandered into a section with a sign saying “Секонд Хенд” (sekond hend). Suddenly I noticed strangely familiar clothing: L.L. Bean sweaters, Levis, even a vintage Puma warm-up jacket. A shirt caught my eye; it was blue with a big square pattern, and only slightly worn. The old woman running the stall let me try it on right then and there, and it was a perfect fit. She told me about how she couldn’t sell shirts like the one I was wearing because young people want something shiny with a big designer label on it. She asked for 15 hrivna ($3) and I walked away wearing an almost new, real Etro dress shirt that probably originally sold for at least $250. Moral of the story: Eastern Europe’s trash can sometimes be Broke American’s treasure.